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67/68 Clocks
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Anyone have information about original clocks, how they were mounted and correct colors.
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I'm trying to sort out some particulars regarding the Clock option for 67, 68
Firebird. Here's what I know (or suspect) so far...
67 Firebird Gauges, Tach & Clock had a 'black' face; 68 Firebird Gauges, Tach &
Clock had a 'steel blue' face
67,68 Clocks mounted to the console used a special adaptor base and a mounting
bracket for under the console.
67,68 Clocks mounted to the floor used only a bracket which was mounted under
the carpet.
The '68 Service Manual does not show the adaptor base for console mount.
I've had an NOS Clock w/black face and orange hr/min hands with a white sec.
hand.
I've had an NOS Clock w/steel blue face and white hr/min hands with an orange
sec. hand.
Can anyone with documented factory original equipment verify the above information?
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| Q: |
69 Clocks
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My PHS documentation shows the Electric Clock option
ordered (Sales code 474), but I have no clock. BTW the car is a '69
Firebird Conv. with a 350. Is the code 474 clock the one that went in
the rectangle shaped pod to the right of the two main pods or was it the
one in the left main pod? For reference, no gauge package was ordered
except for the hood mounted tach, which is still there.
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For 69' Firebirds, the clock went into the upper right rectangular pod.
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| Q: |
Console Clock Mounting
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I just bought a console clock for my Firebird but do not know where to mount it. Does anyone have the dimensions where to mount it?
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If you turn over your console you will see the plastic already has holes in it where the screws go.
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By George there are some nice holes cast on the bottom side of the console
with some nice re-enforcement where the clock goes. Those engeeneers think of
everything.
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| Q: |
Console Clock Color
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What color were teh console clock case?
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The consol clocks were all black.
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| Q: |
Clock Mechanism Cleaning (Do-it-yourself)
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How did you disassemble it? Mine is from a 69. The contacts are black and no current can get through.... Can't get the time adjustment out of the front. Was just about to send mine out to be converted but would LOVE to have the original tick-tick back. Where did you actually lube the mechanism?
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I just took mine apart and yes there are points in there!
I was able to take the adjustment knob off by just unscrewing it CCW.
The clock mechanism comes off by taking the nut that holds the +12 tab in place.
This is all done after removing the two side screws that hold the "cup" in
place, of course.
Now I need to get something small enough to clean the points. Maybe I can cut an
emery board thin enough to fit through the little access hole.
Not sure where to actually lube the mechanism. I know that normally clocks don't like oils and goop since dirt and stuff will build up quicker and muck them up.
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I dressed the points on mine by removing the works from the "can" and
physically taking the back of the clockworks off. There are three screws
that hold it on to three stanchions. Be careful, the winder mechanism (a
white-colored spring that has half of the points on it) is spring-loaded,
and came unwound on me.
The "Plus 12V" side of the coil was broken off. I unwrapped one wrap of the
coil to get enough to solder to.
I dressed the points with a points file; an emery board will work, too.
I lubed all the bearing points (wherever a gear shaft touched a plate). I
used the straw from a WD40 can and dipped it in a little pool of WD40. Just
enough wicked up into the straw that I could place a dot of it right where I
wanted it.
I rewound the spring (took three wraps) and put the back on again.
Since my last post, I sanded and painted the inside of the "can" that holds
the works. I used VW baby blue from Plastikote. I sprayed the housing with
black eggshell finish lacquer. All I need now is the base -- I'm working on
it.
Checked on it this morning before work -- it's still ticking!
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| Q: |
Clock Repairing
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Does anyone know of somone who repairs these clocks? Mine lights up but the hands don't turn.
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I have the original clock in my 69, I just took it out and opened it up. I redressed the contact points and oiled the gears. I powered it up and it worked. It wasn't that complicated.
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There are a few companies listed in Vintage Parts 411, Year One, and Hemmings Motor News catalogs that repair these.
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Go to the electronics store and get a product called 'Blast Off' to clean the clock mechanism. Then use a tiny bit of very light oil, run the thing hooked to the battery for several days before reinstalling. If this doesn't work consider having it converted to a quartz.
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I sent mine out to a company to have rebuild it using a quarz movement. It's
kept perfect time now for 3 years and you can't tell any difference. Junk the
mechcanical movement - they're not worth the money. I spent about $100.
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| A: |
ISI, Instrument Services, Inc.
11765 Main Street
Rosco, Illinois 61073
"We do them all, all makes and Models - 1920's to 1980's"
Instruments also, speedometer, tachometers, gauges, clusters...
1-800-558-2674
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| Q: |
Clock Wiring
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I have a clock i bought off of EBAY a while back and it seems to be in great shape. I wanted to hook it up to a battery, but didnt know the best way to do this. It has the complete wire harness 3 wires --
1. black
2. grey - two connectors on the end
3. reddish orange - two connectors on the end
How did you hook yours up?? This is a very solid clock and I do not want to hook it up wrong and break it.
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Orange wire is +12V. Black wire (has a clip on the end) is ground. Gray wire is
for the light. At the clock end, the gray wire is attached to a quick-disconnnect.The other half of the disconnect is attached to a blue wire, which is attached to the bulb socket.
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Black is ground, Orange is constant +12V, and Grey is connected to the light on
your console shifter.
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