| Q: |
Steering column has play
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Steering column has play, is there a fix for a worn out column?
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| A: |
The steering play can be coming from a couple of
places: the rubber/fiber flex joint or the gear box. The joint is simple to
replace and most auto parts stock it their misc section. You'll have to pull
the column. To check this joint, make sure the car isn't running (if you
have power steering) and have someone turn the wheel back and forth
about a quarter turn. If the joint is bad you'll see the upper half move than
the lower half. If it's the gear box is sloppy, you'll see the input shaft
moving a lot and the output (pitman arm) almost still. There is an
adjustment on the top of the box that can remove a little of the sloop. You
can recognize it as a standard screw slot with a locknut. Loosen the
locknut and tighten the screw until you feel a slight resistance.
Re-tighten the locknut and see if it feels better. It may be necessary to do
both to really tighten the steering. If this doesn't help, look for a new
gearbox. Hope this helps.
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| Q: |
Steering gearbox's for '67
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What is the correct steering gearbox's for '67?
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| A: |
Power steering: Box ratio, 17.5 to 1 (not the same as Overall Steering
Ratio,
which is not given, but probably 21 or 22 to 1).
Housing assembly part number: 5691674 *
Quote from service manual (supplement):
The only difference in the Firebird power steering gear assembly is
in the
amount of travel of the pitman arm. This Firebird has a movement of 35
degrees from center position of the pitman shaft in either direction.
This is
accomplished by use of a new end plug which is thicker and the use of a
snap
ring inserted at the upper end of the steering gear housing between the
rack
assembly and inner cylindeer. end quote.
Standard steering: Box ratio, 24 to 1 (overall, about 28 to 1). Housing
assembly part numbers:
6 cyl wo A/C 5679271 *
6 cyl with A/C 7801592
8 cyl all 7801592
The * means that the part is common with Pontiac and Tempest models. Note
that there were no optional gear ratios.
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| Q: |
Power steering gear box
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I have a 68. Box is leaking, I'm going to change it,Is there a better box I
can go to,Better ratio and such?
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| A: |
First off you can easily replace seals in your box, its not that big of a
deal. I however do like the newer style steering boxes, I have a Z28 and a
Trans AM box on each of my 68 Birds. The output shaft and frame bolts on
old and new are identical and the steering box looks the same externally.
Lock to lock turns are now about 2.3 and 2.5 turns on each car. These boxes
are also higher effort and provide good road "feel".
The are however some differences in modern and old boxes. If you get a 76-78
Z28 box(probably same for Trans AM), the imperial hose fittings(existing
ones) will still work, after these years, the new metric style hose fittings
with O-ring is used, you can get new hoses made up.
The other difference is the diameter of the input shaft, my Trans AM box had
a smaller diameter input shaft and I used a coupling from an old manual
gearbox we had and it mated perfectly to the flex coupling on the car.
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| A: |
Best Gear box is the 78-81 with WS-6 package. All 79 silver anniversary
cars had this . Another clue is 4wd disc brakes. No external marking to
differenciate the box so make sure its still in the orginal car before you
pay big bucks for one. I ve seen them go for as much as$150. 2.2 turns lock
to lock and an awsome road feel. Well worth the effort. I ve had one since
1980. Also will Work on 64-72 A body but the turning radius is compromised
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| Q: |
'68 Power Steering Pulleys
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I am trying to determine the proper double drive pulleys that were used for the power steering opition on a 1968, 350, with a 4 speed manual transmission. If anyone has a factory stock power steering setup I would appreciate it you could tell me the approximate diameter of the pulleys for the harmonic dampner, water pump, alternator and power steering.
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| A: |
68 - all V/8 exc.A.C.,P.S. 9796059 Pulley- 1 grv, 8" dia.
69 - F/8 H.T., A.C. 9796061 Pulley- 2 grv, 6.25" dia.
(exc. Var. Pitch Fan)
69 - all V/8 A.C. 9796062 Pulley- 2 grv, 7.18" dia.
(with Var. Pitch Fan)
ALTERNATOR PULLEYS
---------------------------
62-72- all V/8 1949357 2.75 dia, 1 groove
(exc. 62 amp.alt.)
POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEYS
---------------------------
67-70- all V/8 P.S. exc. A.C., RAV 9786900
67-70- all V/8 P.S. w/A.C. exc. RAV 9786901
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| Q: |
Power Steering Conversion
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I am interested in putting power steering in my 68 Firebird 400. What is
the best approach? Is there a later model Firebird that has a steering
box, pump, brackets, etc. that will directly bolt up?
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| A: |
Use all the engine mounted hardware from a 68 Pontiac V-8
Each year is different in the pulleys,brackets etc.
Best gearbox to use is one from a 78-81 Trans Am with WS-6
suspension option. Next best one is any Trans AM(69-81)
The WS-6 has 2.2 turns lock to lock and gives a real nice
road feel.It is a high effort box so doesnt give the steering
the mushy feel.You must replace the relief valve located behind the pressure
port in the ps pump as the Trans Am box requires more pressure.
There are some quick ratio A body gearboxes but stay away from them
as the internal stops are differnt.Any gearbox that you use must have the
pitman arm replaced with the correct curved 68 one.These are avaliable
in repro form for about $90.
Its not cheap to do it right but what is.
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| Q: |
Pitman Arm
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Can anyone help me ?
I have just taken delivery of a pretty good but (almost) completely
dismantled (by someone else) '69 Firebird 400 convertible.
The car is from the USA and is left-hand-drive at the moment. As far as I
know it is original.
Because we drive on the left side of the road here in Australia I may have
to convert the car to right-hand-drive but that's another story.
Anyway the problem is the Pitman Arm.
I was told by someone that the Pitman Arm should be flat and straight. The
Pitman Arm in my car is curved like a banana and also has a curved step in
it. This means that the drivers side of the drag-link is closer to the
ground that the passengers side.
Is this what the original arm should look like ? If not what does it look
like ?
Any help/opinions would be appreciated
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| A: |
I had a similar problem with my 68 400 convertable. The shop had a guide
that showed a straight pitman arm so I bought one from Classic
Industries. Unfortunately, it was the wrong part. Mine too was curved
and stepped. I found one for around $99 at Ames Performance Engineering
that worked great.
I was told that these are hard to find and that I might have to just
rebuild my old one. I felt lucky to have found one!
Ames Performance Engineering is in Marlborough NH and can be reached at
603-876-3345 or fax at 603-876-4645.
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| A: |
The Pitman arm in my '69 Firebird is also curved. The one in my '67 is
straight. I don't think it matters which one you use as long as you
have clearance around the stock exhaust manifolds/pipes. If you run
long branch manifolds or headers then you won't have any problems with
either setup. (someone correct me if I'm wrong!)
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| A: |
I'm sorry, I seem to have missed the mark with my reply.
As you see I described the Pitman on my 69 race car, but as
this has a much modified front end, I couldn't be 100% sure.
I got my 69 convertible back today, and the pitman arm is
the same bent shape.
Now I will try and be more helpful.
I have always disliked converting cars LHD to RHD or
vice/versa.
I believe that there is more "potential" danger than the
original system. But having said that, if you "must"
convert, then I would suggest that you stay away from the
chain system and the angle box
system. The only safe (safest) way is to use say, a pre HQ
box (HT-HG etc) and possibly other componants from various
Holdens.
I think you will find that they had some very similar pieces
and
you can select enough parts to make it work.
Also the US Ford pick-ups use the same Saginaw steering box
as the Chev
pick-ups but it mounts on the other side of the frame rail,
so there is
another possibility.
If the car is very disassembled, maybe you could use a
complete front sub frame from an HQ-HZ ! May sound silly ,
but think about it.
All your steering, brakes, suspension is there. All you then
would need is to change the pedal box and dash,and column of
course.
I hope this is more helpful, I'm sorry it is so long, but
it is the biggest swap there is.
Good Luck.
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| Q: |
Pitman Arm Installation
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I just received a new pitman arm from Ames today. I know how to remove it, but how do you install it without misalignment to the steering gear? There doesn't seem to be any marking on the new arm I can see.
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| A: |
the pitman arm has a spline cut in such a way that it could be put on in 4 different positions 80 degrees apart , if you pull the old one off and don't move any thing Just put the new one on and it will be correct, If starting with every thing off and out. Center your steering wheel, turn all the way in one direction turn back the other direction counting turns then center is half of that, straighten tires, And the correct placement will be apparent in this general area. An alignment may be necessary as wheel center when tires are straight may be off, besides an alignment is a good idea any time front end parts are replaced. good luck
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| A: |
Results:
I installed the new Pitman Arm on my '68 yesterday. It took about 20 minutes after jacking up the car and removing the driver side wheel.
The new arm is made by a company in Modesto, CA. called Rare Parts. Ames stocks them and sells them for $100. Rare Parts will sell it to you for around $140! Ames was the cheapest place I could find one. No problem installing the part, except it caused my steering wheel to be off center by about 10 degrees. Now I have to pull it and re-center it.
I did make a significant difference on the handling. No more wandering, nice and stiff. Upon removal of the old arm, the center pin that bolts to the center link fell out. That tells you how worn it was.
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| A: |
I would NOT remove and move the steering wheel to center it, as the steering gearbox has a centerpoint! Get the alignment checked, you'll need the toe adjustment set to center the wheel properly.
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